The Mission Grape: A Historical Gem with Modern Significance

The Mission Grape: A Historical Gem with Modern Significance

Yes! Mission is a grape variety (also known as Listán Prieto in Spain) and has a fascinating history in the Americas. Originally introduced to California by Spanish missionaries in the late 18th century, this historical variety laid the groundwork for the state’s wine industry. Starting in Mexico, where it was grown by Spanish settlers (and missionaries), the Mission grape eventually made its way north to California. It thrived in the region’s diverse climates, from coastal areas to inland valleys, and became a crucial part of the vineyards in the development and construction of the Missions of the west.

For nearly a century, the Mission grape was the main variety in California, producing wines essential for religious ceremonies and daily life, which is why the vines remained intact even throughout Prohibition. Its resilience and adaptability made it a staple, even though the wines produced were often considered modest compared to European standards. As California’s wine industry grew, European varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir started to take over, leading to the Mission grape’s decline in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

Despite its fall from prominence, Mission has experienced a revival in recent years. Progressive winemakers who are passionate about heritage and uniqueness are rediscovering the grape’s potential. In California, especially in regions like the Sierra Foothills and parts of Southern California, boutique wineries are crafting Mission wines that highlight its distinctive characteristics: light body, moderate acidity, and a subtle, fruity profile. This comeback aligns with a broader trend in the global wine industry, where there’s a growing appreciation for indigenous and historically significant grape varieties.

Speaking of which, we make a very small amount of Mission wine! Prior to the 2020 vintage, I was offered the opportunity to farm and harvest about a quarter acre of heritage Mission vines in the Tepusquet Canyon area of the Santa Maria AVA. Some of these vines were planted almost a century ago, and are even dry-farmed (no irrigation)! We tend to these historical giants year around, which means we have control from pruning through harvest, allowing them to yield only what they can handle, particularly in drought years.

The Mission variety typically yields large, loose clusters, with moderate berry size, and in most years, quite uneven ripening. In my opinion, this is what makes Mission fun in that each year is truly its own expression.

All things considered, I think the Mission grape symbolizes a connection to the past and a commitment to preserving wine heritage. As consumers continue to push the industry in a quest for authenticity and tradition in their wine experiences, the Mission grape stands out as a testament to the legacy of traditional wine production and the timeless appeal of heritage varietals.